It is a magical place steeped in myth and it is cherished by the Bhutanese who know that there is no other place quite like it.

From the moment you arrive, you are treated as guests and not as tourists. The Bhutanese are respectful and welcoming. Tenzin, our guide, meets us at the airport in Paro and is eager to show us the sights. His knowledge is vast and he shares it, unravelling Bhutan’s history for us as we climb the circular stairs of Ta Dzong.

Built in the 17th century, it houses religious tonkas, icons and relics from the past. The story of Bhutan begins to unfold for us, as it will continue to do throughout our two-week journey.

It is spring in Bhutan. The magnolias and rhododendrons are in bloom and the annual spring festival has just started in Paro.

For five days, masked dancers mesmerize the crowd with stories of demons and deities. Cymbals clang and horns boom as monks in animal masks and colourful costumes perform. Between dances, clowns entertain the crowds and even though this is a religious festival with important moral messages to impart, everything is done with a sense of humour.

Children play while monks of all ages walk back and forth among the crowds. Women wearing their very best traditional kiras are beautiful as the colour of their woven dresses shimmer in the sunlight. People graciously make room for others as the crowd grows.

The celebratory nature of the festival is infectious. Everyone is having a good time.

The next day we head to Taktshang Monastery or Tiger’s Nest, the most recognized and visited place in Bhutan. As if somehow a miracle is responsible, it sits perched on the side of a cliff, 900 metres above the Paro valley.

Tiger’s Nest is one of many monasteries and dzongs (forts) to visit in Bhutan. The dzongs are traditional seats of power, where government officials and the monk body co-exist, linked not only by a courtyard, but also by traditional beliefs.

The government philosophy of Gross National Happiness is steeped in Buddhist tradition. Government leaders are admired not just for their intelligence but also for their gentle and altruistic nature.

At Trongsa Dzong, young monks perform a yearly ritual for the Sins of the Dead. We are entranced by the sound, the movement and the fragrance of the incense.

At other dzongs, young monks are playful and mischievous and we are reminded that they are just young boys.

We travel to the Ha Valley through Chelila, one of the highest passes in Bhutan. As we journey past forests and through mists, we see yaks grazing at the side of the road, and at the peak we stop to listen to prayer flags flutter in the wind

The Bhutanese live in peaceful coexistence with nature and nowhere is it clearer than in the Probjikha Valley, where Tabiting villagers have opted to live without electricity in order not to disturb the winter home of the black-necked cranes. Solar power provides light just two hours every evening.

The Crane Observation Centre gives visitors an opportunity to see the cranes from October to March.

The desire for a lifestyle that is in harmony with the natural environment is clear as you travel through the country. Almost all buildings (outside of the capital of Thimphu) are built in a traditional style out of wood and stone, bringing an architectural symmetry seen in few other places in the world.

In the Paro valley, we are invited into a farmhouse. The rooms are simple; possessions are few. The altar room, however, is large and ornate. It is clearly the most important room of the house.

The farmer invites us to come back for a hot stone bath. Located just outside of the farmhouse in a small building are old wooden tubs. We return to find them filled with water and heated by hot stones. As the water cools, more stones are added.

After our soak, the farmer offers us some arra — an alcohol made from rice. We leave feeling light-headed and warm and happy.

In central Bhutan, large painted flying phalluses decorate homes. Said to boost fertility and protect the occupants, they honour 16th-century Drukpa Kunly, the Divine Madman known for his humour and bizarre antics. He’s credited with creating the takin, a Dr. Seuss-like cross between a cow and a goat.

After a hike through bucolic fields, where planting is done by hand and fields are tilled with the help of oxen, we reach Chimi Lhakhang, a temple dedicated to the Divine Madman. Paintings at the temple illustrate his life and the altar has several bone and wooden phalluses used for blessings.

Our journey is coming to an end. We have to return to Paro, home of the only airport. On our way, we see Buddhas painted on the side of cliffs, a monastery in the process of being painstakingly restored and white langur monkeys sunning themselves on the road.

We have had the privilege of being blessed by monks, visiting our guide’s sister’s home and being in Bhutan during the excitement of their transition from a monarchy to a democracy.

Our hotels have been basic, but the rooms were clean and warm, often heated by wood stoves. At Hotel Dewachen in Gangtey, hot water bottles warmed our beds.

The food is plain, unless you are adventurous enough to try the national dish of chilies and cheese. Being spring, the vegetables are fresh and rapini, asparagus and fiddleheads are often served. Vegetarians are easily accommodated.

On our last morning, our guide presents us with scarves to insure our safe journey. We say goodbye and promise to keep in touch. The peacefulness and beauty of Bhutan is hard to leave behind.

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If YOU GO

- The best time to go is during festival time in the spring or fall.

- Bhutan limits its visitors to those who are willing to travel with a guide. Itineraries are flexible and there is a great deal of freedom and choice.

- There are numerous Bhutanese tour companies to choose from. Raven Tours and Treks is just one recommended by the Association of Bhutanese Tour Operators. Go to www.raventoursandtreks.com.

- Recommended hotels include Hotel Dragon Roots in Thimphu, Yankhil Resort in Trongsa and Hotel Dewechen in Gangtey.

Magical Bhutan